Andrew Jefford | Bright, full gold. Lots of development here, and maybe some botrytis: unctuous, honeyed, and full. Super-attractive, what with the honeysuckle and buttered nuts and all the other attractions. Lots of warmth. Some might say heavy, but I think they would be benighted. Full, rich, developed, soft, oxidative, and ample: a lovely tarte-tatin sipping Riesling. I can’t really imagine a German making this, so Alsace—but I’d love to be proved wrong. Soft and open and not for keeping. Riesling for summer picnics and trysts in the woods. | 90

Stephan Reinhardt | Intensely golden in color, this mature Riesling opens with a deep, intense, and elegant bouquet of ripe fruits and crushed limestone. Full-bodied, intense, and round on the palate, this is a silky, finessed, and textural, very Zen, concentrated, and sustainably salty Riesling, with an impressive, spectacular long finish that reveals finest phenolics. If Pinot Noir is red Riesling, this is white Pinot Noir. Gorgeous! 2021–50. | 96

Anthony Rose | Mid-gold, this is looking quite evolved, and the aromas suggest a touch of oak, accounting perhaps for the color. The flavors are ripe and sweetly apricotty, with an appealing, mouth-coating concentration of flavor, a fruitiness rather than sweetness bringing a hedonistic appeal to a nicely balanced wine with no hard edges. | 90