Andrew Jefford | Pale, bright gold. Very richly fruited here: apples and dripping honeycomb. We’re all in for autumn, and late autumn at that. There is an oxidative element to the aromas, but I enjoy the articulacy, resonance, and suggestiveness it brings, the mists and mellow fruitfulness. Fresh brown bread, too, pert from the oven. Highly characterful and resonant on the palate, with huge concentration. Mellow, tarte-tatin-style fruits, with some mushroom and truffle—and honeycomb, though the wine is fully dry. Grand stuff, though it will blow the hairpiece off traditionalists. It could come from either side of the river, but I would favor the Alsace vanguard. | 92

Stephan Reinhardt | Pure and intense but also lactic on the nose to open this Riesling, which also reveals crunchy, stony notes. Rich and intense on the palate, this is a full-bodied, again lactic but vivacious Riesling, with an intense palate that reveals a creamy texture with a fine tannin and mineral grip and a sustainable salinity. All in all, this is a powerful and quite massive Riesling that fails to stimulate me at this stage. 2025-37. | 91+

Anthony Rose | Quite a deep gold in color, this smells like the overripe apples you’ve scrumped at some point in your life, that cider appley character linked to apple peel and core. But the faint spritz on the tongue brings hope of redemption, and while there’s still plenty of apple pie and custard fruit involved, this wine does in fact redeem itself, albeit in an idiosyncratic style that should appeal to apple-pie and candy-apple lovers. | 89