Stephen Brook | The nose isn’t very expressive, but there are lurking aromas of pear and apricot. The attack is fresh and lively, and while there’s little depth of flavor or complexity, it shows an uncomplicated fruitiness and a light mineral tang. It’s balanced and has sufficient acidity to carry it through to a reasonably persistent finish. | 89

Simon Field | Bright nacreous lemon color; viscosity to the fore, with an immediately seductive nose of mirabelle plum, quince, and poached pear; the Roussanne component makes its presence felt in this early stage of development. The palate is forward, oaky and modern: butterscotch and tarte tatin, yogurt and cinnamon. A shamelessly seductive example; Ekberg in the fountain, alluring and rich. Hard to say in the longer term; it may fall somnambulant and reemerge with a kerosene austerity. Why not enjoy it now and ask questions later? | 93

Andrew Jefford | Bright mid-lemon-gold. Lots of sweet nougatine draw here: almonds, honey, egg white. Very attractive and classical; and with a little apricot fruit peeping out from behind. Unlit tobacco leaf, too. An enticing aroma. Soft, mellow, full, secondary, with ample mouth aromatics that fill out and deepen the allusions noted on the nose: more nougatine and almond, more subtle apricot, more cured plant leaves. There is bright and sustained acidity in amply ripe and resonant style; the wine is textured and long. Hard to better this as an appellation benchmark and a completely delicious and unique wine to sip, withatenderness you don’t often find in other Northern Rhône whites. | 94