Stephen Brook | Fresh pear nose, lively and brisk. Silky attack with fine acidity giving some vibrancy. It’s tangy and very primary in its fruit expression. There’s little complexity, but it’s direct and up front, with a slight bitterness on the finish that might be related to granitic soils. Moderate length. | 87

Simon Field | Soft straw color, watery rim; no lack of viscosity; distinctive nose of youthful Marsanne, adhesive, poached pear, and papaya. Thereafter, appropriately youthful, windfall apples, mirabelle plum, and good levels of concentration. The acidity is more marked than at first blush; structurally sound, maybe a little loose knit at the death, but redeemed by white pepper and a whiff of camphor. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Slightly paler than its peers: steely green- gold. Softly creamy scents, with ample scents of white blossom though no fruits as such. A faint note of cigar wrapper, too, and plant sap: very classy and refined, if understated. Pure, elegant, fresh, zesty, surprisingly acidic—more a white for fish and seafood than an aperitif style. Again, not a huge volume of fruit; I get the sense that this might have been picked as phenolic maturity approached, rather than after it had arrived. Deftly handled, though, and I don’t doubt that it will age well; indeed, the acidity is so dominant at this stage that I would leave this for two or three years before pulling the cork. It’s just a little unrewarding and tightly swaddled as early as this. | 90