Stephen Brook | There are muted stone-fruit aromas on the nose, which is distinctly subdued. This is rich and weighty but also a touch sweet. This seems derived from discernibly high alcohol rather than residual sugar. That light burn on the finish would be wearying after a few sips, and the slight bitterness on the finish isn’t that agreeable either. The balance is off. | 85

Simon Field | Pale lemon color, then a nose of Brie skin and autumn leaf. The palate, by contrast, is stentorian of voice, any vestigial elegance obscured, and what is just about discernible as a (ripe) fruit character is lost forever behind an overexertion of engagement. | 84

Andrew Jefford | A slightly fuller pale gold than some of its peers. Exciting, even sexy apricot fruits here, with a mellow floral sweetness that almost evokes Condrieu, though that is theoretically a different prospect. Super-aromatic force and enchantment in this bottle. After five minutes, though, the sheen of charm has slightly faded, and there are some dusty grain scents behind the floral notes; a touch of coffee cream. Exciting nose all the same, however. Slightly less impressive on the palate, in that the aromatic fun is still there, but there isn’t quite the same fruit drive that, for example, you find in [Bernard Gripa St-Péray Les Pins 2019]. Indeed, the acidity is almost the main structuring element, and the depth and concentration of fruit don’t quite push the acidity forward. A worthwhile and engaging bottle nonetheless. | 88