Stephen Brook | There’s a flourish of ripe pear fruit on the nose, which is solid rather than fragrant. Broad and succulent, this is on the verge of overripeness, but the weight of fruit and the creamy texture hold it together. The acidity is certainly on the modest side, but it’s still quite persuasive. It’s fairly one-dimensional but bracing on the finish, if not especially long. | 89

Simon Field | Deep straw, canvas color and a pronounced, almost exotic nose; honeydew lemon, tilleul, litchi, and plums—almost Gewurztraminer; mandarin and gorse, soft caramel and overripe pears. Intriguing. The palate shares this gingerbread allure; unusual, to say the least. A little botrytis; a late pick, in all probability. Atypical but far from disagreeable; where to, my friend? Hard to say, but it may already have peaked... | 87

Andrew Jefford | A fuller gold than most, withatouch of old gold in there somewhere. Gosh: different. You might almost guess there was Muscat in here! Richly grapy, perfumed, and head-turning, but not St-Péray as we know it. Smells like St-Péray with a dash of Beaumes de Venise. Hmm... A little bit tired, in all honesty. The fruit, let’s say, is retro in style; it’s not hugely concentrated. The air has got to the wine somewhat, and the grapy notes are a little disconcerting. | 83