Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: An excellent Pez in every way: harmonious, and made in the spirit of the great 1950 vintages but with the precision that comes from modern-day winemaking. Its only disadvantage is to belong to an appellation that produces so many excellent wines—including some with more tension on the palate, thanks to a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Youthfully raw, faintly green olive character to smell; very nicely balanced, firm, but without astringency; moderately concentrated, ripe, and sweet to taste, with the bright edge of ’08 acidity, a lightly mineral tinge, and good, light length. Fine de Pez, accessible early. 2014–20+. 15/15.5