Essi Avellan | Developed color. Oxidative characters dominate the nose, with brown-apple and cider notes. Singular. Austere on the big, fleshy palate. | 83

Simon Field | Golden tint and a mousse that is both ludic and persistent; a nose of caramelized salted lemon, praline, and sourdough; plum and patisserie behind that. Most appealing! Sour honey, bitter lemon (verbena maybe), and poached pear on the palate, the dosage maybe a little high, thereby undermining the high praise hitherto lavished. | 89

Anthony Rose | Pale to mid-gold in color, this is expressively complex in its aromatic profile, showing ripe plum, light biscuit, and sweet praliney notes, followed by a richly flavored, finely textured mousse, whose bubbles carry those flavors and the toast complexity of lees aging from tongue to grateful throat on a convincing and satisfying fizz that tapers to a fine, dry finish. | 95