Essi Avellan | A deep golden color, with amber hues. An evolved nose, with charred toasty notes lingering over pristine apple fruit. Age-complexed already but not oxidative. Delicious fruity appeal. The palate does not quite deliver the great expectations given by the nose. It is left a little hollow and dry, with accentuated acidity. Long, vinous finish. | 93

Simon Field | Deeper color, unpolished bronze, matted and a little miasmic. A plump nose, oxidized avant la lettre and an equally Hogarthian denouement, painted ladies running amok, overly made-up, wintery in outlook. | 84

Anthony Rose | Mid-gold in color, showing a degree of evolution, with a buttery aromatic note on the nose also showing some evolution; a pleasantly soft peachy middle, with ultra-soft bubbles lifted by a linear streak of lemony acidity, so almost a Champagne of two halves, both evolved and supple on the one hand, but kept fresh by its lemony finish on the other. | 89