Essi Avellan | Deep, evolving color. Sophisticatedly mild nose, with ripe apple and pear fruit. Pastry and vanilla tones and soft, yeasty elements. Textured palate, with a cushiony mousse. Very dry palate, amplifying the tartness and taking away slightly from the charm. | 89

Simon Field | Pale, adorned by dawn pewter and a playful, somewhat dissolute mousse; the nose is a little mute, unformed maybe, and shy; apéritif appeal for sure. Innocuous; only windfall apples and a hint of dried apricot. The palate is equally unassuming, somewhat amorphous and verging on the inarticulate. | 86

Anthony Rose | Pale-gold in color, a tad shy on the nose, with light biscuity autolysis starting to show; an attractively textured mousse, stone-fruit flavors, and a pleasingly crisp, lemony finish, nicely dry. | 90