Andrew Jefford | Dark, dense black-red and scarlet at the rim. Rich, ripe, and flamboyant—almost patchouli-like, with some breadth of oak, too. Typically unique, singular, and unintimidated aromas, and the expressive force of 2016 ripeness here tested to the limits. An unapologetic exotic. Ultra-ripe on the palate but, hand-on-heart, I cannot say it is a great success in this vintage. It seems baroque, strained, and drying to me, and I would struggle to drink it. Take a look in another 20 years, perhaps? For we have a hugely concentrated wine here. But the ripeness seems to be almost fighting against the current of the vintage rather than flowing downriver with it. | 89

Michael Schuster | A seductive, subtly ripe-fruited and finely oak-cedary nose, notably persistent to smell; a rich, fleshy, firmly tannic, powerful wine; sweet and fragrant, mouthcoating and fine, a particularly idiosyncratic combination of force and finesse, a beautiful sweet and subtle flavor behind the marked firm frame, a long and imposing presence behind the sheer power. This will need years of cellaring before it begins to show its paces. 2036–50+. | 94