Stephen Brook | Oranges and a hint of crème brûlée mark the nose, which is generous and full. Creamy and succulent, this has immediate appeal, though has sufficient concentration and energy to age well. It’s still taut, and there’s tangy acidity on the finish. At present it lacks some nuance, but it’s very well- composed and balanced, and the finish is graceful and long. | 94

Andrew Jefford | Clear butter-gold in color, with lemon glints. The aromas are still trundling down the runway, but their general sense of sealed-up breadth and weight suggest that it will be a long-haul flight. Ginger spices, lemon, and weighty hot-house blooms: ample understated appeal for now. This is indeed very weighty and serious on the palate, tight-knit, with lots of tangy lemon-and-marzipan depths. Unctuous and full, it still needs a half decade to acquire full aromatic articulacy, but it will make a super-sensual Sauternes in due course, with plenty of brandysnap, mushroom, tarte tatin, and burned pineapple richness. | 94