Simon Field | An almost beautific embrace to the wine, darker at the core for sure, but then an almost translucent, Madeira luminosity. The nose is relatively foursquare for a Port with over half a century under its belt, overripe damson, hints of menthol, and a saddle-leather frame, built up by Asian spice and crushed pepper; thereafter notes of toffee-apple, wild figs, and hints of the garrigue. Less ludic than some of its peers, but far from workmanlike; Capability Brown follies revealed behind the academic chapter headings of this dusty tome. The structure is maybe a little fragile, tobacco with leafy hillsides remembered, but the wine is still engaging in its allusive charm and eases down the corridor of the memory. | 95

Andrew Jefford | This is a deeply hued wine; indeed, a wine in which “red” is still a living memory. While not opaque in any sense, it looks a dark oxblood red in the glass, and only at the very edge of the meniscus is there any loss of coloration. There is lots of cistus and mountain herbs in the aroma, and a firm core of fruit, too. Behind the fruit there is a meatiness and a hidden power. I also detect a cardboard shading to this wine’s aromas, so I feel there are liable to be better bottles of this wine than this; for me, the cork hasn’t performed optimally. It’s big, amply textured, and full of life on the palate, with very complex fruits, nuts, and spices, and a sense of roasted warmth. It has some textural presence, too, and the fullness is not merely glycerous; there is mint and lavender in the finish. A fine ’63, for sure, but a different bottle might have scored even more highly. Okay—it turns out we have some second bottles! The second bottle of this is cleaner on the nose though perhaps even here not impeccable... Well, as we all know, every bottle of wine of this age will be different from every other. The second bottle here confirms the fact that this wine is generous and accomplished, with ample warmth and life, though the allusive notes on the palate were in fact drawn with more accuracy on the first bottle. Old-wine games... | 94

Richard Mayson | Deep in color, still with a hint of black at the center, withathin, amber-tawny rim. Wonderfully rich and expressive on the nose, deep dark- chocolate intensity, and open ripe-berry fruit, sings from the glass; overtly rich, sweet, and still fleshy, with powerful tannins stacking up behind the fruit, a big, expansive, ripe finish, bitter-sweet core, still powerful yet elegant and beautifully poised. This is a wine that will last a lifetime and more. Magnificent. | 97