Stephen Brook | There’s admirable spice on the nose, as well as attractive lime and pear fruit. Juicy and succulent, this has an engaging generosity without being heavy. The acidity is modest but it doesn’t lack nuance or subtlety. Not a wine for long aging, but it’s less one-dimensional than many others. Fairly long, with a nutty finish. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Pale gold in color. This is wine 9, and is the first one so far that I feel has what are, for me, the classic Danubian appeal: aromatic amplitude and wealth, with a rich spectrum of fruits with late-summer charm and sweetness. Some haunting spice, too, behind the dripping peach and nectarine. Pure and sustained, too, without the must-like notes of some of its peers. Very enticing. It’s a little less pretty and charming than that on the palate, but is still full-flavored, doughy, structured, with ample fruity “chew” to it. Very sound and enjoyable wine. | 90

Stephan Reinhardt | Bright yet not pale in its white-golden color opens this Wagram Veltliner from chalky loess soils. Pure, fresh, and complex on the nose, and also spicy. Exciting! The palate is lush and creamy yet finessed and fresh, with remarkable elegance and stimulating bitters on the finish. Lean and elegant, mineral style. To be served with freshwater fish. Good aging capacity, but it’s already a pleasure to enjoy today. | 93