Stephen Brook | Rich apricot nose, almost honeyed. This is soft on the palate, which is hardly unusual for Wagram, though this does seem a bit too plush. There is some underlying acidity, but it’s too fractured to constitute a backbone. And it’s low enough to give some excessive sucrosity to the fruit. Forward and juicy, so drink young for its youthful fruit, as it lacks structure. | 87

Andrew Jefford | A fuller gold in color than our Vienna and Traisantal wines. Expressively aromatic, too: sappy green leaf, bay leaf, clove-spiked apple, wet pumice. Enticing though almost urgent, hence a touch raw. Fresh and bright on the palate, with plenty of apple and lime fruits; sappy and long, with a dry finish. A kind of halfway house between the Rhine and South Australian styles. Well-made and expressive wine that might in fact be better with six more calming months in the bottle. | 88

Stephan Reinhardt | Golden-yellow color. The nose is intensely fruity and almost sweet, with delicate honey flavors and a remarkable concentration. Lush yet tight and mineral on the palate, this is a full-bodied, almost rich and powerful Riesling, with a lingering finesse and salinity on the finish. The wine is juicy, piquant, and salty and reveals a tight structure and an immense aging potential. Powerful and really long. | 93