Bruno Besa | Brilliant straw, golden highlights. Clean, intense, mineral, complex, floral, citrus-fruit nose, with chamomile, lavender, lemon thyme, crushed stones, rosemary, and bay leaf. Compact and layered, with a firm, dry palate and long, salty finish. | 93

Andrew Jefford | Pale white-gold. Raw, slightly funky aromas, but basically clean and neutral, with no apparent fruit. A dry and delicately chewy white, without primary fruit or much concentration and complexity, though the funk is just a tiny complexing note and doesn’t spoil the wine in any way. Maybe the interest is “terroir” but I think it’s going to need a good back label. | 85

Michael Palij | Simple, fresh, elegant nose. Leafy notes of gooseberry and cut grass overlay herbal notes of bay and oregano, with fruit including guava and apple. There is a leesy note of dough and yogurt. On the palate, the finish is marred by an obvious vegetal note and clumsiness. | 84