Bruno Besa | Golden straw. Ripe, clean, apricot and yellow- peaches nose, with clean herbal undertones. A touch flat and ripe on the palate, with moderate length. | 84

Andrew Jefford | Mid- to full gold. Weighty and full, with some oxidative notes, but not unattractive. Golden late summer fruits and some jasmine-flower intrigue; oranges, too. A super-aromatic profile, in truth: compelling and subtle. I go back five minutes later, though, and this fugitive bloom has gone; now soft oxidative fruits, but still with some charm. On the palate, it is wealthy, full, chewy, and dense, with the complexity coming from that (controlled) oxidation. Enjoyable but not quite as outstanding as I had hoped on first sniff. | 87

Michael Palij | Rich notes of apricot jam, cinnamon, ginger, and orange marmalade. This is worryingly developed for a 2018. The palate is similarly opulent and jammy, but I’m not sure that this will stand the test of time. | 82