Bruno Besa | Golden straw. Ripe, tropical nose, with dry hay and beeswax, honey undertones. Overripe and fairly short palate. | 85

Andrew Jefford | Bright full gold. Rather fatty-oaky aromas, without the fresh charm of the best of its peers. On the palate, too, the handling has rather occluded the wine’s intrinsic delicacy, though it is serious stuff and drinks well. With food, you would get behind the oily resinous sheen. | 87

Michael Palij | Pale gold, with a developed nose that suggests this is only heading in one direction. The palate is broad, obvious, and without sufficient acidity to allay one’s concerns about longevity. | 81