Simon Field | Amber luminescence (if such a thing is possible); the nose marries Cognac with Calvados and, but of course, a very fine malt—Speyside rather than Islay. Incense and peaty indulgence, fireworks without sound. All confirmed on the palate, which ignites the imagination with cigar-box indolence; 40 years old, no need for fortification; testament to ancient practice and the virtues of patience. Bracken, the salty heath, hearthside warmth, and the reassurance that there is really no need to try and improve anything at all. | 95

Andrew Jefford | Mid- to full gold now. Aromatically softening and dissipating, but very gracious: once again, the warm, northern autumn landscapes are evoked, while the soil is still scented, before the birds have eaten up all the fruits and before the frosts have begun to lock everything down. Nuts, windfalls, a touch of cow byre. Super aromatic pleasure here. In the mouth, it is vivid, dry, poised, nuanced, and full of subtlety still: a wholly successful older Vin Jaune. The acidity grows ever more dominant and prominent (it’s almost crisp by now, ironically enough) as the years pass, but this wine has managed to retain much of its aromatic subtlety withal. This would certainly need serving “as a white wine” in the mealtime context because of that insistent acidity, but remember to linger over the aromas. | 93

Roy Richards | Right on track: whisky, dried bracken, withatouch of caramel. The palate has kept its freshness and grip, which in turn lend it extraordinary length. Forty years old! Very special, and a real treat. Difficult to spit out. | 96