Simon Field | Amber color, savory aromatic, earthy and refined; the palate is delicious, crisp and beautifully balanced; orchard fruit and verbena, white chocolate and malt, an elegant seam of acidity and impressive whisky length; it builds reassuringly on the palate. An elegant and memorable peroration, with no shortage of rhetorical flourish. Of such things tales are told and lives built. | 96

Andrew Jefford | Mid- to full gold now. This has aged successfully; the fruited wealth and floral chamomile fragrance of some of the younger wines has gone, but there is dry fawnskin-and- chamois, yeast-extract-and-walnut-butter refinement here, which is very attractive. Clean and serene. On the palate, it is brisk and fresh, profoundly but ripely acidic, relatively fleshless but nonetheless complex and resonant by dint of its extraordinary origins and upbringing. There is more time ahead for this wine, for sure, and it’s a Château-Chalon that you could easily serve with fish rather than the classic creamy coq. Almost pungent, indeed, and palate-percussive. | 91

Roy Richards | In this last flight of older wines, the robes have moved to resemble mature Sauternes. Peppermint and caramel, old Cognac. Fascinating: not powerful, but endlessly teasing and very long. A wine of meditation. 95