Simon Field | Burnished gold, bright and dignified, sui generis aromatic of sour quince, almond, and wood smoke; very precise and composed. Fino saltiness and balletic lightness of touch, all conspiring to an eloquent peroration of freshness cleaved to a savory refinement. | 91

Andrew Jefford | A relatively full gold. Sweet, warm, nutty, and full, but only discreetly allusive when first poured. Very haunting, though, and it keeps drawing you back: bread, cream, nuts, the forest in autumn. Later it becomes more sweetly creamy (cream sponge cake), though the savory vellum balances that sweetness and lends it dignity. Even a touch of white chocolate, too? It has a restraint, a fragrance, and a delicacy that wasn’t apparent in the Arbois wines. On the palate, it is deep, complex, and finely meshed. The acidity is less apple-like and more like that of apricot and peach skins, with a little unbitter lemon. The savory notes are very subtle and fine; there is delicate un-seaweedy umami. Long, fine, refined, and sustained, right to the finish. Outstanding. | 94

Roy Richards | Pale gold, if less so than a couple of others in its flight. A very different nose, floral, with notes of almond. Really special. The flavors, both candied and taut, reveal themselves slowly to the palate. | 92