Simon Field | Magisterial on the nose beyond a dignified pale-gold robe. Peaty, with hints of tropical fruit, beeswax, and marmalade, autumn evenings and the steely recollection of pre-dawn pacts; guava and dried fruit, mature apricot and hints of gorse. Excellent weight and concentration, Lowland gravitas but with, once again, that hint of decadent sweetness right at the end, bestowing a tangy yet resoundingly satisfying conclusion. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Pale to deep silver-gold. Very different in aroma to its peers; to begin with, indeed, it reminds me of rum and raisin ice cream (you never know quite what you’re going to get with a Vin Jaune), though later there is more classicism, with plant sap, dry nuts, dry thyme, and rye crispbread. Later, very fresh seaweed umami. It doesn’t have the all-over amplitude of most of the other Arbois wines, but it finer drawn and more sculpted, with more lift and finesse. On the palate, this is lively, firm, deep, and searching, with a rich seam of rounded, tangy, lemon-tamarind acidity; there’s some umami and seaweed on the finish. I am slightly missing the breadth and wealth of some of the other Arbois wines here, but that is a subjective assessment; in terms of measurement and calibration, this is very good indeed. | 92

Roy Richards | The palest of this flight. Very pretty, smoky nose, suggestion of sweetness, nutmeg. Explosive fruit on the palate—so fresh, more apéritif than postprandial. | 92