Simon Field | Luminous soft gold, tears crowd the glass. The aromatic is pure yet classic: Manzanilla salt, bracken, and smoke from the glade; thereafter subtle intensity, a weave of forthright contradiction, savory, with a gentle kiss of sweetness to betray quality. Sercial comes to mind, the forthright acidity and crystalline freshness gloriously evocative and wholly persuasive. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Pale gold here. Quiet and gentle, with quince and gooseberry fruits; some delicate mushroom notes, too. Warm grains. Very attractive in a quiet and understated way. On the palate, by contrast, the wine is concentrated and no longer seems understated, though for me it is very much Savagnin and perhaps a little less Vin Jaune: masterful and insistent, well-rounded acidity and that cool, marly-clay chewy tang to it. The yeast, nuts, cream, and vellum are a little more recessive here than for most of its peers. I don’t want to exaggerate this character, though; this is merely a terroir speculation. It is certainly a true Vin Jaune, and bread, yeast extract, and chamomile all form part of its character. This is very good indeed, and possibly outstanding for the appellation. | 91

Roy Richards | Also pale. Bouquet is candied and nutty. This has a lovely balance and elegance, modern but not vulgar. | 90