Andrew Jefford | Bright pale gold in color. Light, sustained, penetrating aromas in varnishy furniture polish/ beeswax style (acetaldehyde). Refreshingly fragrant. This is very much what you find on the palate, too: lots of acidic snap and drive, with tangy lemon-and-autumn-leaf flavors. A soprano, but darting and incisive and with plenty of concentration. | 89