Simon Field | Dense and young, almost parodic in its squid-like inky rigor, a bottomless pit of extraction and smoky, sooty, Dickensian mystery. Hard, unforgiving tannins, Heathcliff’s heather and gorse. Times present and times past, hard to plot, and quo vadis? | 86

Andrew Jefford | This is darker, denser, and more purple- infused than our other Collioure, though it is a year younger. It’s a little bit grunty and reduced, as young Grenache so often can be; I’ll look again in five minutes. Same situation then: still grunty. In the mouth, it is pure, deep, soft-contoured, sweet and has meaty charm. Much slighter tannins than those we saw in the Rhône and up in the Agly Valley. Enjoyable drinking but less ambitious than our outperformers. | 85

David Williams | Inky, savory (almost brothy), but with a soft plumpness of texture and ripe, just about to fall off the tree fig and damson fruit. No lack of life, there’s a wave of freshness in here for all the extract and richness. | 89