Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Sweet, enticing nose, blackcurrants, black cherries; close to jammy. Soft but concentrated, with plenty of tannic grip behind the opulent fruit. Abundantly ripe, and ample oak gives a light but not unappealing caramel tone. There is no overextraction, so overall this works, delivering a fine cocktail of fruit and tannin and a lively finish. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Opaque black-purple. Fresh, clean, light: pure blackcurrant, with impressive, sweet ripeness. Textured and full, with lots of blackcurrant backed with well-managed tannin. Classic Médoc Cabernet: Its excellence lies in the fact that you wouldn’t necessarily guess it was ’04, since it doesn’t really have that cool shadow lying over it. More like the balance and restraint of ’01. Good effort. 14.5