Simon Field | A whiff of reduction, and a rather flat and lackluster appearance. Pebbles and straw on the nose, rejoined by hints of kerosene and smoke. A little unconvincing, finally, and lacking length. | 83

Andrew Jefford | Pale gold (rather than the silver-gold of the Evia Assyrtiko). Bubbles cling to the side of the glass. The aromatic profile isn’t a great success—cardboard rather than fresh fruit or anything intriguingly stony of volcanic ash-like. At least at first; later, with air, the wine clears and lifts, and some tender citrus becomes apparent. The palate is very oily, saline, and highly original but will seem rather torpid alongside the best examples of this variety. It is, to be fair, also very concentrated and characterful, and that oily saltiness might be acclaimed by some as an outstanding terroir note—indeed, it lends the wine a certain balance, alongside the customarily sustained acidity. Perhaps I could grow to like it, but it’s a more challenging wine than the best of its Santorini peers. | 89

Demetri Walters | Surprisingly approachable and lacking the expected elevated acidity. Seashell and salinity. Fruit retiring, though possessing a marked lemon seam that weaves the whole palate together. Well balanced, fresh, and fairly plump. Long and cleansing on the palate. | 89