Neil Beckett | Although the entire range from this greatly improved and still improving producer is impressive, the greatest revelations and the greatest value are among the range of Marsannay wines, very sensitively and skillfully wrought by the talented young technical director, Sylvain Pabion. The elegantly herbal-mineral, lithe, racy, and sapid Longeroies was the first of an excellent Marsannay trio that I tasted, and the other two were even more exciting. This Clos de Jeu has a natural sheen to its medium-deep ruby. Briary dark fruit, black and red raspberry, intense and lightly earthy mineral but not at all forbidding on the nose. Close-knit, firm, and gently grippy underneath, but an almost cashmere softness on top, thanks to the abundant but expertly extracted tannins. This is both characterful—you sense it comes from a special site—and complete, deep and long. | 91–92