Neil Beckett | A unique expression of Les Vignes Franches as a white wine, from 80-year-old vines whose small millerandé bunches yielded only 15hl/ha even in the generous 2018 vintage. Aromatically, a little muddled because racked only the day before, but the quality is abundantly clear from the palate: dense and rich but with excellent animating acidity, especially for the vintage (harvested on September 3, the feast of St Gregory the Great, his namesake Grégory Patriat, the winemaker recalls) and a fabulously flourishing finish. I agree with Grégory that many Corton-Charlemagnes are less exciting than this. Fewer than 1,000 bottles, sadly, but well worth seeking out. | 92