Neil Beckett | The passionate but sensitive winemaker, Emmanuel Sala, rates this site almost as highly as the best premiers crus in Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, and this sensational wine makes a compelling case, as well as showing that Emmanuel has as deft a touch with whites as with reds. Pale gold. Aromatically, this is rich and ripe, with an alluring gentle exoticism, but (harvested on September 7) there is no overripeness, and it even has an almost minty freshness. Excellent harmony, magnificent scale, but enough intensity and mineral tension for it to hold its shape. The phenolics (there is very little débourbage, so some of the heavier lees are retained, though there is no bâtonnage) show in an enhancing light bitterness of flavor rather than in any roughness of texture. Well worth discovering.| 93