Neil Beckett | The Mercurey La Brigadière is excellent, and this village lieu-dit may be even more exciting, bottled separately only since 2015 but surely worthy of the special treatment. Pale gold. A light mineral reduction, but from the limestone terroir rather than any gimmickry in the winery. Similarly, the restrained vitality on the palate comes less from acidity than minerality. Needs time, but the exciting finish suggests it will be well worth the wait. | 90–91