Bruno Besa | Dark garnet core to pink rim. Broad, mature, black- and red-fruit nose, with smoke, tar, prunes, and forest undergrowth. Mature palate, a touch medicinal, with a ripe black-fruit finish. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Translucent but dark black-red. Uncommonly sweet aromas at first of licorice and fondant icing, but there’s fresher cranberry fruit beneath and a suggestion of savory richness. Vivid, quite forceful, with firm tannins and sustained, dark acidity. This wine seems a little unsettled at present, but there is substance there; a year or two may see a higher score. | 84

Michael Palij | A curious nose from a deeply-pigmented Barolo. Simple, stewed red and black fruit, with a curiously baked, overripe note almost tending to oxidation. This is a very old-school style, with exceptionally grippy tannins and murky fruit that does not power home on the finish. A Barolo from days gone by. | 84