Nicolas Belfrage | Medium-deep ramato, a touch cloudy. Funky, “real-wine”-type aromas on the nose. Vegetal and cidery notes on the palate. Interesting, but I’m not convinced the punters will rush for it. | 88

Bruno Besa | Orange to pink. Open, mature, clean, complex red- and yellow-fruit character, with macerated strawberries, figs, orange marmalade, pink grapefruit, plums, and hints of minerals and sea salt. Dry palate, intense yet less exiting if compared to the complex nose. Good length. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Quite a deep orange-pink with some opacity, so possibly a naturalista. Earthy, grippy-grunty scents, which would go down well at a natural- wine fair but perhaps not in other contexts. But not faulty or oppressive. Dry and structured on the palate, with medium depth, but I can’t see what this approach really brings other than “virtue” and perhaps a kind of weight and thrust that comes with a little extra tannin. In sensual terms, the best of the conventionally vinified wines have much greater levels of precision, of allusiveness, and of charm. But this is well done in its style. | 85