Bruno Besa | Pale straw. Clean, floral nose, with a white- fruits character. Clean and lively, with a green- apple and lemon-peel finish. Slightly simple. | 86

Andrew Jefford | Very pale steel-white. Doughy and bready, with a hint of apple and sultana and crushed almond. Taut, tight, pristine, and reductively styled on the palate: Ribolla squeezed into a catsuit. It’s pure and long, though, with plenty to like. Moderate concentration and length, but it works well on its own style terms. | 87

Michael Palij | Elegant nose, showing white peach, litchee, rose, iris, camomile, and dried honey. The palate is textured and rich, with biscuity notes and a pleasant phenolic note adding a twist of dryness on the finish. Decent concentration of fruit and some lifted aromatics raise this above the ordinary. | 85