Bruno Besa | Amber to golden. Ripe, apricot-jam and orange-peel nose, with some volatile acidity yet fairly clean and inviting. Slightly astringent palate, fairly long, but with a volatile finish. | 95

Andrew Jefford | A faintly opaque orange with burnished orange glints. Tangy and mellow. We lose the “Pinot Bianco” thread, but this is an attractive, unfaulty aromatic profile of lushly juicy, licorice- macerated, slightly soupy style; almost the punchbowl without the spices. Deep, structured, and lively on the palate, with soft, agreeably bitter-edged tannins and lots of crab-apple, persimmon, and cranberry fruits. I wouldn’t have guessed Pinot Bianco, but never mind: It’s good. That licorice is back on the finish.| 91

Michael Palij | I think I tasted this before—or is it that all orange wines really taste the same? | 70