Bruno Besa | Pale straw. Open, intense, vinous nose, of green apples, lemon peel, and fresh herbs. Balanced palate, with sweet white fruit. Fairly long and complex on the finish. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Clean steel-white. Sweet, fresh, and doughy, with some subtle thickening from cream and beech leaf. Not a showy or assertive aroma, but there is intrigue here. With air, though, it grows a little more constrained and loses some of the subtleties evident when freshly poured. Overprotected. Lively and bright on the palate, with some substance and a well-judged balance; very attractive drinking in the reductive style, though it’s a shame the aromatic charm in the glass didn’t hold. | 87

Michael Palij | Strange nose of cabbage, wet wool, and milk on the turn. Too much lees contact robs this wine of any inherent pleasure. The finish is attenuated and devoid of fruit. | 76