Bruno Besa | Brilliant straw. Clean citrus-fruit nose, a touch confected and rustic. Dry, simple palate, with a simple finish. | 84

Andrew Jefford | Second bottle: Steel white-gold, with some quiet almond and hazel charm. Fresh, vivid, and edgy, but some of that aromatic nuttiness carries into the palate to give it a little weight. | 84

Michael Palij | Medium intensity, with red apple, white pepper, iris, camomile, and possible notes of corkiness. Both bottles display a similar damp cardboard note, suggesting that this could be sealed with twin-top. In any event, the finish remains unconvincing. | 79