Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Beautifully toasty, evolving nose, with pastry and nutty tones. Sweet, oaky vanilla undertone but minimal oxidation. Round, plush, textural, satiny palate, with plenty of width and length. Sweet, delicious, and long, with genuine complexity. | 91

Simon Field: Wan, oaky, mature, and indulgent—a curate’s egg of putative refinement. Beneath all this, there is little to please; the emperor needs to find a better tailor: the crown is hollow. A dispiriting sweetness hangs over the ensemble, failing to reassure. | 83

Tom Stevenson: Oak-dominated fruit. Where is the varietal character? | 85