Stephen Brook | There’s a smokiness on the nose that is probably oak-derived, but it adds dimension to the stone fruits and lightly tropical aromas. This is medium-bodied but very stylish, with ample precision and poise. It has far more acidity and, thus, zest than the second wine and should age well in the medium term. It’s not that concentrated or profound, but it has an engagingly pineappley finish that lingers on the palate. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Pale to mid-gold in color. Corked, though, and only one bottle, alas. Not scored by me (other than to move the machine on). | NS