Neil Beckett: Medium ruby. Balanced, clean, and fresh, but fully ripe, with a black-fruit character in this mainly red-fruit vintage, and a lick of licorice. Elegant and well extracted, so sufficiently succulent at this early stage, its harmony and integrity intact. It has still to fan out, but this flagship wine can certainly reward time in bottle, as an impressive recent tasting back to 1929 showed. 15