Neil Beckett | Pale lemon-gold. An attractive nose, beguiling purity and reassuring ripeness, restrained and subtle, but there is content there despite the sotto voce delivery. Fresh but gentle on entry, a less angular acidity than some others in its flight, but still good clarity and purity of flavor and structure; the douceur of the vintage but there is enough concentration and definition for graceful stimulation and gently lingering length. | 92