Michael Edwards: A great white-wine maker’s take on red wine, and from the right spot, the Clos St-Jean yields a much more delicate and refined expression of Pinot than the rather burlier Morgeot. Light, yet positive-hued ruby; delectable scents of juicy fruit made focused and classy by the minerals in the soil. A mouthfeel at once fine-drawn yet with a fine, poised persistence of flavors. A brilliant partner for milk-fed suckling piglet. 16.5