Simon Field: An extremely attractive nose, showing spice, chocolate, and a little orange peel; not overwhelming but refined, elegiac, loose-limbed, and finely constructed. The spirit is well integrated; the acidity is elegant, well matched to a fruit profile of medium intensity; floral, fresh, and long. Just the faintest hint of oxidation betrays the fragility in an otherwise pleasing piece of work. | 87

Andrew Jefford: Dark, clear, and translucent, though plenty of red and black remains. Complex, creamy, closely woven and very attractive aromas, with ample dark currant and blackberry fruit; some black cherry, too. There’s little spice yet, and no menthol at all; still attractively primary in many ways. On the palate, this is sweet and spicy—but relatively simple in construction, still offering lots of exuberant pleasure. | 85

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep center, just starting to brown on the rim; demure and a touch spirity on the nose, underlying depth. Big, full, slightly stewed berry fruit, with firm tannic grip and lovely dark- chocolate concentration lingering onto the finish. Drink now and over the next 25 years. | 89