Neil Beckett: Dense, shimmering white-gold. A superb nose, exquisitely nuanced and pure, the better for having no new wood (the enlightened practice since 2003, more in keeping with the avowed intention to “reveal” rather than to “correct”). Ravishing texture, great finesse, perfect harmony, pleasing sucrosity: not the biggest or most concentrated Le Clos, but one of the most complete and elegant. 17.5