Simon Field | Big, bold, and oaky, a surefire crowd-pleaser, ripe with gastronomic suggestion; on its own, a little clumsy and even buffoonish, but the message is serious, and it has a real gravitas to vocalize its feelings. Handle with care. |88

Andrew Jefford | Mid-bright gold. The extra year seems to have brought a mealy, savory, almost smoky- bacon note to the party, while the flowers are in retreat, but this is still hugely voluptuous and charming and seductive, with a creamy fennel- and-almond sweetness; some double cream from barrel fermentation, too. Weighty, earthy, spicy, and unctuous on the palate, this delivers well on the “luxury white” promise of this appellation. Gorgeously fleshy, dense, perfumed wine to roll around on the tongue. | 93

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Full robe, gold present. Elderberry, licorice airs mingle on the nose, which is weighted and freighted, a typical 2015 robustness at its center. Ripe, cooked pear is central. The palate is rich and thorough, coated, and demands sipping with creamed dishes or even haggis; it’s up to robust flavors. The aftertaste shows vanilla from its abundant oaking. This packs a punch—a big Condrieu. 2021–22. | 88