Simon Field | Quite evolved, with an autumnal grace to the fore; weighty, attractive, and, at the moment, food-friendly but not for keeping. | 87

Andrew Jefford | Full clear lemon-yellow. Rather a tanky, stewy nose, I’m afraid, lacking freshness, precision, and charm. Lots of acidity but little ample ripeness, and no aromatic charm whatsoever. | 78

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Sturdy yellow robe. The nose presents a gentle evolution on the restrained 2014 theme, a note of damp wool, quince fruit, a note of cooked lemon. It has the clarity of the vintage. The palate bears neat fruits, a smoky tang in play from the oak, and a mineral lacing for the final stages. This holds the purity of good Condrieu from a more temperate vintage, and the aftertaste’s notes of menthol attest to that. It’s a bonny wine. 2020–21. | 90