Neil Beckett | White gold. Lovely aromatic purity, if also restraint, at this early stage. Hervé neatly sums up the winning paradox of this well-exposed site as sud mais pas sudiste ("south-facing but not too southerly or sunny"), and this vintage exemplifies that identity perfectly; the impression of richness comes from its harmonious layers rather than from sheer weight, and there is still more than adequate animating energy and surface tension. A great controlled explosion on the finish. | 92