Neil Beckett | A compelling blend from parcels in Butteaux (90%), Forêts, and Montmains. Pale lemon-gold. Bright citrus notes, including peel and pith, are still clear on the lightly reductive nose. Less fine-boned than the equally good Les Lys, but a very complete combination of deep earthiness (Hervé describes Montmains's clay-influenced personality as paysan, racinaire) with mineral scintillation and tension. | 90