Neil Beckett | The négoce Chablis is excellent at its level, but this domaine bottling is clearly superior, thanks in part to its distinguished origins, including as it does some wine from the outstanding old-vine village lieu-dit Vieille Voye, as well as from premiers crus Butteaux and Fourneaux, and even young-vine grand cru Blanchots. Small wonder it can easily support the 15% fermented in foudres. Harvested early but ripe, so that it stays croquant even after the malolactic fermentation, which talented technical director Grégory Viennois regards as vital (not least so that they can then use less SO2 and filter more gently). Pale gold. Complex, lightly exotic nose. Good density and richness, added definition from perfectly pitched phenolic pithiness, and a lovely drinking balance, with both matière and momentum. Excellent. | 89