Neil Beckett | An old-vine cuvée from a special terroir—"not village, not premier cru, not grand cru, completely sui generis," says Grégory—excellent ever since its first release in 2014, but particularly precious this vintage in that there are only 1,000 bottles rather than the average 7,000. Fermented in foudres but aged in stainless steel, this already has a beautiful floral fragrance, acacia and honeysuckle; silky and supple, but with an almost painful agrumes intensity and spiraling finish. Hors classe, as usual, and exceptional value. | 91